Kauai has always been my favorite Hawaiian island. When I was a kid, Kauai and Maui were where we would go for vacations (I know, rough life, huh?). I remember loving Maui for its snorkeling and shopping, but Kauai always kept a stronger hold on my heart. Kauai is old Hawaii, even ancient Hawaii — sacred shrines and mysterious sites abound. The pace of life is slower, and when you’re there you feel your heart rate slow and your mind clear. I think it’s technically possible to go to Kauai and not relax, but that misses the whole point.

My dad and I used to rent a cabin in Koke’e, up in the mountains. It had no electricity, it was far away from anything resembling civilization, and in the winter we would wake up to frost on the ground. The first time I saw frost it seemed like magic. Incidentally, although I’m no longer a kid in Hawaii, frost still seems magical to me. Maybe it’s because it reminds me of that cabin, and all the time I spent there outside under trees and in streams. Kauai is covered with plants; I’m a forest creature at heart, and Kauai always felt like some kind of perfect primal home to me.

The area around Koke’e has some incredible hiking opportunities. When I was about 13, my dad and I hiked the Alakai Swamp Trail. This was right as they were transitioning to the boardwalk trail that is currently in place. There were areas of the trail that were still muddy and hazardous, and I did go in the mud up to my hips at one point. (It built character.) The swamp is incredibly beautiful — when we went the air was full of mist, and I felt like we were walking through the border between two worlds. Water was mixed with land in an unstable agreement, and now water was mixing with the air so much that when we moved more than a few yards apart we couldn’t see each other.

Kauai has unique flora and fauna that are now rare or extinct on other islands. Kauai is where I saw i’iwi, the native honeycreeper. If you can tear yourself away from the forests, there are some lovely beaches with good snorkeling.

A couple of years ago my Better Half and my dad and I all met up in Poipu, Kauai for Thanksgiving week. This was one of the best vacations I’ve ever taken — the company was perfect, the weather was perfect, we hiked, we went sight-seeing, we swam (well, Better Half and I did, and snorkeled too; dad opted out), we had many magnificent tropical drinks, we had great meals, and overall I was reminded of why I love Kauai so much. If you go, here are my favorite spots:

Beaches: Poipu has a lot of nice beaches for swimming, lounging, and snorkeling, and you can get some decent bodysurfing and boogie boarding in. Better Half and I saw monk seals, sea turtles, and dolphins, as well as myriad tropical fish.

Food and Drink: Roy’s Poipu Bar and Grill is a very nice high-end restaurant that I have found to be consistently excellent; I have fond memories of the whole local fish I ate there. We had a great brunch at the nearby Joe’s on the Green, complete with traditional brunch cocktails (Bloody Marys, mimosas, mojitos… that last one might not be traditional, but it became my new favorite brunch cocktail on this trip). While on Kauai, make sure you get a fresh coconut out of the back of someone’s pickup truck; you can drink the coconut water as-is or add a little rum and lime for a more festive libation. You should also find an excuse to get some Lappert’s ice cream, it really is quite good. Make sure to choose a local flavor, I’m partial to lilikoi.

Entertainment: The Grand Hyatt Kauai, in addition to being one of the most beautiful resorts on the planet, has very nice tropical drinks, which you can enjoy while watching live Hawaiian entertainment in the evenings. Of the evening entertainment, I’ll say this: I grew up in Hawaii, I know how to do real hula, and the performance at the Grand Hyatt Kauai is awesome. It’s not a tacky tourist show, it’s the real deal. And there’s fire.

Hiking: Koke’e State Park is home to my favorite trails. I’m partial to the Berry Flat Trail. There are so many great hikes to do on Kauai that I actually recommend getting a travel guide book to help you decide what trail is best for you. Be advised that many trails are very difficult to drive to, and renting a 4WD vehicle is a good option.

Other things to do: Look at the wild chickens, they’re neat. Drive around the island, it’s beautiful. Visit historical sites, they’re interesting. Eat as much tropical fruit as you can hold. Go see Wailua Falls (see picture above), it’s incredible. Sit still. Breathe. Just be.